From the steppes of Ankara to the north; I’m traveling by bus, leaving behind the  steppes of Ankara. As I enter the city of Sinop—a place I know only from my grandfather’s stories, yet know so little about—I’m greeted by statues of the Amazon Queen Sinope and Diogenes, one of the first philosophers of antiquity. Entering the city accompanied by a woman and a thinker warms my heart, almost inevitably. I had been hurriedly trying to memorize my lines from the play during the journey, but this city quickly slows me down and calms me. I take a deep breath, I see the sea, I feel the wind. After a while, I meet the people who have come to welcome me. I’m in my new, temporary home now.

I was invited to the Sinop Biennial to perform the Turkish version of choreographer Evie Demetriou’s piece The Usual Suspect. The Biennial, initiated by its founder Melih Görgün and curated by a team from five different countries, takes place every two years in July and August in Sinop, bringing together local and international artists. University students from various departments work as assistants at the biennial, creating a productive space for learning, experimenting, working together, and sharing.

After presenting my prepared performance, I choose to stay in Sinop a bit longer and experience it at a slower pace. I also intend to visit the village from which my maternal grandfather’s family migrated in the mid-1950s. But before diving into the past, I surrender myself to the present.

Calm, Respectful, and Smiling

During the summer months, Sinop draws visitors from nearby towns like Kastamonu, Boyabat, and Taşköprü, thanks to its clean sea and beautiful beaches. Its nostalgic innocence, its sunsets that embrace the soul, almost detach you from your present time and geography. In 2013, Sinop was named “The Happiest City” in Turkey, and it’s easy to see why—almost everyone is calm, respectful, and smiling. You can walk alone at any hour of the night without worry. However, the increasing population due to migration in recent years suggests that new social initiatives may be needed to help newcomers understand and integrate with this culture of respect and ease.

Master Agop

Sinop is home to modest and respectful coexistence among Turks, Greeks, Armenians, and since the 1850s, Circassians, Abkhazians, and Georgians who were exiled from Russia. Although most Greeks left after the population exchange, until the mid-1950s, Armenian and Greek populations continued to live in villages such as Sarıyer, Lala, Ahmetyeri, Kabalı, Abalı, and Altınoğlu. Ayancık was predominantly Greek, while Gerze was a mix of Greek, Armenian, and Turkish residents. Later, Armenians migrated to Istanbul or the U.S., and Greeks to Athens or Istanbul. However, some families maintained contact with their neighbors and returned to visit in the 1980s. The children and grandchildren of those who grew up away from these lands now come to see the villages where their elders were born.

Sinop’s Last Armenian Family

Before migrating, Sinop’s Armenians typically worked in broom making, basket weaving, and fishing. Today, only one Armenian family still lives in Sinop. Agop and Nazar Usta (Master Nazar) share the recent history of Armenian presence in Sinop through their own family stories.

Fifty years ago, many Armenians lived with their Turkish neighbors in the Çamlık neighborhood. During Easter, pots were tinned, meals were cooked and shared with all neighbors, and everyone would dance horon together. Later, the state expropriated the land, forcing everyone to move. Most residents migrated to Istanbul, and those traditions faded. “It’s hard to live without kin around,” says Master Nazar, but he praises his friends in Sinop, noting that true friendships still endure there.

Master Nazar

Master Nazar is one of the most respected craftsmen in the Sinop Industrial District. Everyone loves and respects him. He is a master in engine repair—so much so that people say, “If Nazar Usta can’t fix it, no one can.” Even though he and his brother Agop occasionally visit relatives in Istanbul during Christmas or Easter, they continue to live in Sinop. If you ever find yourself in Sinop, you might want to visit them—they’re always happy to see guests.

My Grandfather’s Village

Before leaving Sinop, I head 20 kilometers out of town with friends from the biennial to visit my grandfather’s village, Ahmetyeri. We drive through small hills, trying to locate the village center. My plan is to find the oldest resident and ask about where my grandfather’s family once lived. Eventually, we meet Mehmet Amca (Uncle Mehmet). When I mention “my grandfather, Sarkis, Armenian” in a sentence, he says, “Alright, come with me,” and starts listing names he remembers: “Sultan (my grandfather’s mother), Surpig (his sister), Artin…” and the list continues. We give Mehmet Amca a ride in our car and drive in the direction he guides us.

I focus on the small, modest wooden houses he shows me. I want to feel my grandfather’s undocumented (photoless) childhood deeply. Maybe, I think, maybe he ran down that slope; maybe he climbed up here; maybe he played in the fields with friends; maybe that’s the school he helped build and attended until third grade… Maybe. Maybe… The truth I may never fully know. But seeing my grandfather’s childhood with my heart fills me with a kind of warmth I cannot explain.

Mehmet Amca’s son tells us about some Armenian neighbors who died outside Sinop in the 1980s but wanted to be buried in the village. He points us toward the cemetery. It’s now almost overgrown into a forest. We cut a path with a sickle and walk through thorny bushes to approach the graves. May they rest in peace…

A moment comes when there’s nothing more to see or say… We thank the villagers and Uncle Mehmet and leave. On the way back, I feel satisfied with this journey. To my surprise, everyone in the car is deeply moved. We drive on in silence. As always, the road continues—toward the new and the unknown.

This article published on Agos Newspaper in Turkish https://www.agos.com.tr/tr/yazi/10259/sinop-un-ruzgari

Creative Dance/Embodied Pedagogy
https://www.agos.com.tr/en/article/29492/creative-dance-embodied-pedagogy by Meri Tek Demir